(Part 3) Women & Shoes - Modern Day Foot Binding, Cannes Controversy, Required Work Shoes, and Men's Version of the High Heel
Exploring social norms, pros and cons of 3 inch shoes, and how ties are to men as heels are to women
In case you missed it:
A love letter to my red sweatshirt, statement coats, and a lesson learned
✨I post Wednesday’s & Sundays.✨
The Holy Trinity of the Fashion Industry
In Part 1 and 2 I commented on my view that impracticality and nonconformism are a sign of wealth. One who can afford both fashionable and functional items and similarly does not have to worry about conforming to societal norms (e.g. wearing creased clothing as a sign of being “above” the standard set for others).
To wrap up the last publication of this series and of 2023, I want to talk about shoes. I mean what else more is there besides purses, clothes, and shoes? It’s basically the holy trinity of the fashion world.
Stilettos and Their Enemy, the NYC Subway
A woman physically walks slower when she is wearing stilettos. She might take a car or have someone pick her up. She’s definitely not running down the NYC subway steps in 4-inch heels, fishing for her metro card, pushing a stroller, and balancing grocery bags. Okay maybe some wonder woman out there is, but that’s a rarity (and she’s certainly not doing all that because she wants to).
This is a bigger problem than one might realize! One brand, Pashion Footwear, took it upon themselves to solve this problem with convertible heel-to-flat shoes; however, reviews seem to be mixed. Even more so, a few years ago, high heel friendly subway grates were installed at two locations on the Upper East Side of NY. I’d venture to guess many of the residents of that area are not frequenting the subway all that often.
Modern Day Foot Binding & Social Norms
Don’t get me wrong - I love wearing heels just as much as the next gal and dream about one day owning my own pair of Manolo Blahnik’s and Louboutin’s. However, wearing one too many uncomfortable heels in the name of fashion or formal dress codes got me to thinking.
How and when did it become socially acceptable to walk in shoes that not only permanently damage your feet but cause tremendous pain (and lets not talk about the dreaded hammer toes)?
This vaguely reminded me of the centuries-long practice of foot binding. This practice was first adopted by royal and upper-class women who were part of wealthy families. This is how wealthy and working-class girls in China were differentiated (among other things of course). Girls would bind their feet until they were married and over time this would make their feet smaller. It was seen that only those from higher socioeconomic classes could afford to take a break from work and partake in a beautification practice that severely limited their mobility. We won’t even mention the pain and medical consequences that these girls had to endure just to show their social status. Working class women could not afford to not work so it was imperative to be mobile and have functioning feet.
Even today, heels are a sign of wealth. They signal occupation (typically corporate or office jobs) and wealth (able to take a taxi to work or an event). Sensible shoes are important when function is required. And function is required for those who cannot outsource laborious tasks or must make fashion choices based on their practicality. This is an oversimplification, but I think it holds true in majority of cases.
High Heels Mandatory in Japan
I work in finance, and if you know anything about the dress code you’ll know that heels are more or less mandatory. They’re viewed as an occupational necessary and appropriate attire (like ties for men). In fact, Japan’s Labor and Welfare Minister called it just that, “It is socially accepted as something that falls within the realm of being occupationally necessary and appropriate”. I’m not aware how widespread this is, but a sizeable number of businesses in Japan require working women to wear, stand, and work in heels between 2 - 2.75 inches. Companies in Japan are fully allowed to regulate employee work wear without limits. Women protested the high heel rule in the so-called KuToo movement. There’s appropriate for work and then there’s regressive dress codes.
Cannes High Heel Controversy
In 2015, Cannes Film Festival caused controversy when a group of women who were wearing flats were denied access to the red carpet because they were not in high heels. Heels have become equated with formality and status (not everyone is invited to the Cannes Festival).
The Juxtaposition that is High Heels
High heels are a bit of a juxtaposition if you ask me. They aide and inhibit women at the same time.
On one hand, heels add on average 1-3 inches to a woman’s height. There is a clear power dynamic when it comes to height (tons of research has shown that height has a positive correlation with social status). I personally wear flats or sneakers to the office and change into heels at my desk. I’m not necessarily wearing stilettos but my shoes do add height (to my already tall 5’ 8.5’’ frame). It’s not like I can boycott heels either. If my female co-workers are wearing heels, I end up looking physically smaller. I will also visibly stand out and will look “unprofessional” in the eyes of female and male co-workers. It’s just the name of the game that I’ve come to accept.
On the other hand, high heels also limit mobility (similar to foot binding or stilts). They are unstable (stilettos especially), very uncomfortable (try walking on gravel or in the subway), and ultimately make one susceptible to falling (I speak from personal experience). Heels add height but are sure as heck not reliable, practical, or stable. One wrong move and you’re toppling over just as you’re walking up to shake a client’s hand… I always find myself holding my breath whenever I find myself in such a precarious situation at work or in public.
Also, if there’s ever a situation where two employees are trying to out-run each other to the boss’ office you know who’s losing. The one in the 3 inch heels, that’s for sure.
High heels can truly be dangerous. JLo can confirm if you don’t believe me. She was almost hit by a garbage bin because of them!
Ties are to Men as Heels are to Women
Sure there’s men who wear heels and women who wear ties. However, when it comes to the normative ways of society, ties are to men as heels are to women. In fact, men have even compared them to leashes. There’s a whole history behind the symbolism of a tie’s material and pattern.
In 1998, Prince Claus of the Netherlands publicly yanked off his tie during a ceremony, proclaiming, “[it’s a] snake around my neck. For me, a necktie is like a dog leash -- both symbolize a limit on freedom.” His wife, Queen Beatrix, criticized him after this, arguing that is just, if not more, difficult for women who have to walk in high heels, climb stairs, and stand on trains in them. Both have a fair point!
Neither ties nor heels have any actual function. When it comes to dress codes, they’re more or less remnants of outdated historical practices (kind of like an appendix). However, then it comes to fashion, there’s no getting by without them.
I doubt we’ll start seeing women grace the red carpet in flats (although some have), and I’m by no means proclaiming we all throw away our 👔 or 👠! I sure have no plans to! But I do think that our dress codes should reflect the modern world and that we should have a bit more flexibility.
I truly hope you enjoyed this three part series exploring the relationship between (wo)men and clothes, purses, and shoes. I view fashion through a cultural and historical lens, guided by my own personal experiences.
Thank you for reading, and see you in 2024 🎉!
Yours Truly,
Katarina
Comment below:
What is your hope for the new 2024 year? What trend do you want to come back in style, and what trend do you hope we never repeat?
What’s your personal experience with ties and high heel shoes (or any other dress code item)?
What’s something you’re required to wear to work / is the standard in your job?
Do you share my view or maybe have a slightly different one (would love to hear both)!
I’ve never worn High heels (shocker) but I always wonder, do the men who perpetuate the pressure for women to wear them ever think - are those comfortable to wear ?