(Part 2) Women & Fashion - The Double Standard, The Case of Amal Clooney, The American Abroad, and Creased Clothing
Part 2 out of 3 | Michelle Obama's $35 dress, Adam Sandler's famously casual style, Hailey Bieber outfit meme, ironing my home clothes, and the meaning of fashion
In case you missed it:
A love letter to my red sweatshirt, statement coats, and a lesson learned
✨We’re officially on a schedule folks! Wednesday’s & Sundays. Stay tuned for part 3 of the 3-part series on Sunday.✨
Brave New (Styled) World
A woman often has to strike a delicate balance between being fashionable, yet not so much so that she is not taken seriously for her positions and views. We see this in the film Legally Blond how Elle Woods, albeit incredibly fashionable donning her all-pink suit, struggles to get people to take her seriously because of it. She became a stereotype for the "dumb blond”. Or take Hillary Clinton (whom we mentioned in Part 1). So much media attention was dedicated to the color and style of her pantsuits that it seemed like all she had to do was show up in the “wrong” outfit and anything she planned to say or do was a moot point.
“It seems inevitable, if unfair, that when a woman is vying for a prominent position in office, her outfit choices will be analyzed to a degree considerably higher than those of her male counterpart by simple existence of gender stereotypes” (
for Time Magazine)
Can a Woman be Both Extremely Stylish & Business Savvy?
Margaret Thatcher, Hillary Clinton, and Princess Diana leveraged not only the power of a purse but also the power of an outfit. Princess Diana’s famous “revenge dress”, which she wore the same day that her husband, Prince Charles, admitted on national television to cheating on her, caused quite the media uproar.
It is often the case that no matter a woman’s intellectual contributions to the world, she is often judged by her sartorial choices.
It’s a real limiting factor that’s as old as time. That’s why those in the public eye often work with entire teams of stylists and consultants. Every accessory and every detail down to the last button has to be perfectly crafted so as to not be misconstrued nor detract attention from the woman wearing it. If she dons a $1,000 purse, she’s considered too frivolous, yet if she opts for a more budget option, she’s “just trying to seem like she’s one of the people” (recall when Michelle Obama wore a $35 H&M dress on The Today Show). Many read this as some sort of sign rather than a simple fashion choice.
Famously Casual - The Double Standard
The now infamous paparazzi photo of Hailey Bieber, dolled up in a red mini dress, closely followed by a sweatsuit-wearing Justin Bieber caused a cultural frenzy. It was the top couples Halloween costume in 2023. Everyone and their mom got the reference. No explanation was needed. This photo (and many other paparazzi shots of Hailey and Justin) showed the stark contrast between the baseline expectations of men and women when it comes to dressing for the occassion. Regardless of our personal adherence to general dress codes it’s fair to say that Justin’s outfit choice was not fit for Hailey’s makeup brand launch party. It’s something you wear around the house. Not to your wife’s event.
Or take Adam Sandler and his wife. Adam Sandler is an A-list actor and one of the most well-known comedians and film directors. He is also known to opt for comfort over fashion. Throughout the years, Adam Sandler has stuck to his tried and true look - sweats and a sweatshirt (collared shirt if the occassion is extra special and a suit if extra, extra special).
He’s rarely (if at all) questioned for his fashion choices and never asked why he doesn’t opt for a suit more often. That’s just his style and Hollywood has come to accept his famously casual attire. He’s an actor after all, not a stylist or model, so he can dress as he pleases. He’s funny…he can’t be funny and have fashion sense. This isn’t to call out Adam Sandler specifically but to highlight the dichotomy when it comes to gender and dress codes.
In my (unsolicited) opinion, it’s an expectation for women to (over) dress to the occassion. It’s a bonus if men do.
The Case of Amal Clooney
One of the few women who was able to (more or less) successfully pass unscathed from such predispositions is Amal Clooney, international human rights lawyer.
I think part of that has to do with the respective industries that her and her husband, George Clooney, work in. Hollywood is inherently laser focused on appearances while human rights law is focused on cerebral ability. No level of fashion will help anyone become an internationally renowned lawyer. It’s very difficult for someone to argue otherwise, especially given her level of success in fighting human rights violations around the world. Thus, the media is able to applaud her fashion sense in a way that doesn’t diminish her professional achievements.
That’s not necessarily the case in Hollywood. Had both been in law or had she been in Hollywood and he in law, I predict this would not have been the case. Tina Fey famously called out the irony in this during the 2015 Golden Globes where George Clooney was awarded a lifetime achievement award:
“[Amal] is a human rights lawyer who worked on the Enron case, an adviser to Kofi Annan on Syria and was appointed to a three-person commission investigating rules of war violations in the Gaza strip. So tonight, her husband is getting a lifetime achievement award” (Time Magazine).
The American Abroad
I’m from Ukraine, and if you know anything about Ukrainian women, you will know that they dress up for the most menial tasks, from taking out the trash to getting the mail. Americans are famously known to dress down compared to other cultures around the world. Countless articles and how-to guides on “how to not look like an American abroad”. I can’t say I’ve come across any non-satirical articles that encourage dressing like an American tourist. I’ve candidly seen way too many people in New York wearing their pajamas at the grocery store. And that’s in the city that hosts fashion week. Honestly, more power to them. I just personally could never.
Ironing Your Home Clothes!?
When I was younger, my mom made me iron my house clothes. Yes, those old school pride shirts I wore at home had to be crease free. I (almost) always begrudgingly complied yet never understood why. It’s not like anyone will even see me!
Like any teen, I had my rebellious moments. Mine consistent of walking around in an un-ironed shirt. Lame I know. However, the older I got the more I started to understand. It wasn’t that someone was going to visit our home unannounced and see me. I think it was a form of self respect - teaching me how to dress and properly present myself in public by preparing me in private. As an adult, I’ve now acquired the habit of travelling with a mini steamer absolutely everywhere. I meticulously iron all my outside clothes and simultaneously bask in the freedom of being able to walk around my own home in my un-ironed tees.
Irons Out, Creases In
There is no functional advantage to ironing one’s clothes. Yet we’ve been doing it since the time of the Egyptians, who used hot stones to smooth their clothes. So why do we do it? Does the smoothness imply youth, does the act of ironing show that we are a rule-follower, or does it actually imply self respect?
For its 2023 collection, Prada’s designers purposefully left in creases as a “gestures of error”, showing “pieces that have had a life”. The clothes were meant to feel authentic:
“There is a sense of the life of women. Life and humanity craft the clothes – not superficial embellishment, but traces of living, leaving marks” (Elle).
Loud vs. Quiet Luxury
2023 was also the year that “quiet” vs. “loud” luxury became popular. Bold colors and ostentatious labels are considered loud, and indicative of newly acquired money, while muted colors with subtle branding are reflective of old money and generational wealth. It’s the difference between those who do and those who don’t have to prove that they’re rich.
Creased and disheveled clothing is the latest signal of luxury. It’s a power play. A loud “I don’t care” and a simultaneously quiet “I don’t have to adhere to convention and societal rules because I can afford not to”. That doesn’t mean fashion should be rigid (no pun intended) but there is much to be said about how we decide to show up in the public sphere.
First Impressions Matter
One can’t deny that how we present ourselves, ironed clothes or not, has an impact on how we’re perceived by others. There’s a famous saying in Russian that roughly translates to, “we greet people by their clothes and bade farewell by their minds”, meaning that when we meet someone, before we actually have a chance to speak with them, our first impressions are based on their outward appearance. This is akin to “judging a book by its cover”.
What I’ve noticed is that in the U.S., we treat the public sphere (any place outside of our home) like a direct extension of the private. That’s not the case in many cultures and places around the world. To me, the public sphere is a bit like performance art. You put your best foot forward, dress up, and present yourself in how you want the world to see you. One could argue this is like putting on a mask or an act but that implies one is unauthentic. On the contrary, it’s about presenting the best version of oneself. And, if one chooses to, take on a completely different version.
Fashion & Political Statements
Fashion can, and indeed does, often convey social status, make a statement, and express a version of ourselves that we want to highlight. So much so that we have begun to interpret clothing as the main point in and of itself. Celebrities and prominent figures have long used the Red Carpet as their opportunity to make political and personal statements. From Lady Gaga’s VMAs meat dress to Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez’s “tax the rich” Met Gala gown. The Red Carpet has become their version of a lectern.
The Meaning of Fashion
Fashion reaches almost every realm of society - culture, art, history, and politics. The history of fashion traces back to nearly the beginning of time. Yet, despite this, everyone’s meaning and interpretation of of fashion is different. And therein lies beauty of it.
I personally take time to curate my daily outfits because they make me feel better. The act of changing out of my pajamas and putting on my outside clothes is akin to making my bed. It makes me feel productive, gets me ready for the day, and mentally prepares me for the outside world. It also sparks my creativity.
Even fashion designers, whose job centers around clothes, view it differently:
Fashion ties us to moments of our existence. - Karla Welch, celebrity stylist
Fashion is about storytelling through clothing. - Shiona Turini, freelance stylist and consultant
The point of fashion is to protect you. - Ruthie Friedlander, site director, InStyle
Fashion celebrates women. - Gabby Katz, account director at Karla Otto
Joy…The joy of wearing something that makes you feel powerful or beautiful or in control. - Laura Brown, editor-in-chief of InStyle
Fashion is art, it’s commerce, it’s function, it’s expression. - Christene Barberich, co-founder and editor-in-chief of Refinery29
Fashion, to me, represents life. - Amy Smilovic, founder and designer of Tibi
Ultimately, no matter the brand or the number of creases, it’s never the clothes that makes the woman. It’s the woman that makes the clothes.
Yours Truly,
Katarina
Leave a Comment:
Who is your style icon?
How do you view clothes? Do you think about the role they play in your life?
What’s your personal definition of fashion? What does it mean to you?
How do you think society’s view of fashion has changed?
I love your take on fashion. One thing I've come to loathe is underdressing--either by people in shorts and flip-flops or, as you've stated, Americans abroad giving themselves away. At least try!